Let’s start with what an auto clutch is not—it is not an automatic transmission. You still get the satisfaction of shifting, but you don’t have to constantly worry about the clutch. An auto clutch automatically engages and disengages the clutch—you simply shift into gear, twist the throttle, and go.
It is also not a slipper clutch. Unlike a slipper clutch, which disengages when the throttle is chopped, a properly set up auto-clutch maintains engine braking.
Absolutely. You can still use the clutch lever to modulate clutch engagement manually. We love the precision you can get through the clutch lever, so we designed our products to preserve that experience for those that love it too.
You still need to use the clutch lever to shift gears, but you don’t need to feed out the clutch lever when starting from a stop. If you’ve mastered clutchless shifting, you don’t need to touch the clutch lever if you don’t want to.
It makes stalling your bike virtually impossible.
For the street rider, anti-stall technology means you can sit at a light with your bike in first gear without touching the clutch lever. The light turns green and you just get on the throttle and go. You can even start in second gear and our clutch engages smoothly without lagging or jerking—it just goes.
For the dirt rider, anti-stalling technology means that your bike stays running when you take a tumble over that gnarly log or when you drop the bike in a corner. You just pick up your bike and get going—no exhausting all of your precious energy trying to kick over a hot bike.
It lets you focus.
Low speed maneuverability is improved greatly as the auto-clutch will automatically feed traction to the rear wheel smoothly. This frees the riders mind to focus on bike movements and control.
With your mind off your clutch, you’re free to concentrate on other things like the scenery of that gorgeous mountain highway, negotiating that steep single track, or how to get through that strategic line.
It improves your performance.
Whether you’re after faster lap times or just an epic ride on the open road, our technology gives you a performance advantage. Launch off the start line (or stop light) faster, take corners in a higher gear, and concentrate on more precise throttle control.
It unleashes your skill as a rider.
We constantly hear how our products allow people to ride more efficiently and with more confidence than ever before. Confidence doesn’t have a metric like horsepower or torque, but our clutches deliver more than just improved performance, they help you take your ride to the next level.
No. Rekluse clutches are more efficient at clutching than the human hand, which means your clutch parts will last as long as stock componentry. In fact, Rekluse clutches are so efficient that they typically last longer than a conventional clutch. The exception to this rule is if the clutch is installed incorrectly and the break-in procedure is not performed.
All three Rekluse Auto Clutches can be configured to bump-start the engine in the event your normal starting system fails. However, they cannot be configured for bump-starting on the go like a standard clutch. One must stop the motorcycle and make an adjustment to bump start and then make another adjustment to continue riding once the engine fires. Bump-starting can be done to get you home.
No. A slipper clutch is designed to limit wheel hop on deceleration and when downshifting into corners, but it will still stall like a full manual clutch. Auto clutches provide many of the same benefits of a slipper clutch but they are designed to fully engage and disengage based on engine RPM and won’t stall.
If shifting without the clutch lever it is recommended to “Power Shift” just as you would a regular manual clutch. Even with an auto clutch it can be tough to shift up through the gears if you are under power without chopping the throttle or bumping the clutch lever.
Rekluse Auto Clutches automatically engage and disengage clutches, not transmissions. One must shift the gears up and down just like in a motorcycle with a manual clutch. The clutch feed and modulation to lock out (full engagement) and the disengagement (to prevent stalling) are automatic. The rider doesn’t have to manually modulate the clutch lever as this is automatic. However, all Rekluse Auto Clutches have the manual clutch lever override feature allowing the rider the choice to use the clutch lever or not.
Generally an auto clutch does not have much of a flywheel effect. Because the auto clutch eliminates stalling, which is usually the reason for adding a flywheel weight, most customers choose not to run one. The auto clutch allows you to ride gear tall with greater success, so for many, there is not a need for a flywheel weight once a Rekluse auto clutch is installed. Some choose to use both.
No modification of your existing clutch parts is necessary with any of our current Rekluse clutches.
Yes, you can return to a stock setup because no modification to your existing clutch parts is necessary. Generally, you can return a bike to stock manual setup in about 30 minutes. With the addition of a manual mode pressure plate, the Rekluse Core EXP can be converted from auto to manual mode and back to auto mode in 5 to 10 minutes.
The rule of thumb is that if you can change out your clutch plates, you can install any of our Rekluse clutches. Detailed instructions are provided with each kit and we have installation videos on our website. Technical Support is available Monday-Friday from 8:30am-5:00pm Mountain Time.
No, the basket sleeves cannot be used with a notched basket. The notches provide an uneven surface resulting in the sleeves being overly stressed which can result in the sleeves cracking and/or breaking. Broken sleeves can cause engine damage and clutch failure. If your basket is notched, it must be replaced.
Yes. All Rekluse Auto Clutches are adjustable to suit rider preference and conditions. We’ve discovered that most riders are satisfied with our recommended setup, but they can be easily changed. Refer to your Owner’s Manual or Tuning Guide to adjust the settings to your liking by changing springs, wedges and idle speed. These changes will adjust how hard the clutch engages, and at what RPM it engages. Engine braking will also be affected.
The small colored springs change the engagement RPM at which the clutch begins engaging.
The larger pressure plate springs (for some models) will change the clamping force on the clutch pack and affect the stiffness of the lever pull. Stiffer springs can help prevent top end slip.
Periodic check of your Installed Gap is necessary with your auto clutch. This is a simple process that differs by model, but does not take more than 10 minutes with any Rekluse Clutch. Otherwise only regular oil changes are needed at the same frequency as your OEM clutch. For more information, check out the maintenance videos on our website.
Installed Gap on z-Start Pro Clutches is the measurement between the pressure plate and the top friction plate. This can be measured with the provided no-go gauges placed 180° (directly across from each other). One gauge should slide in easily and the second gauge should not slide in. Don’t use excessive pressure when inserting the no-go gauges. This can also be checked with two feeler gauges used in the same manner as the no-go gauges. The measurement needs to be 0.030-0.045 inch. (.0762mm – 1.143mm)
The Installed Gap on EXP and Core EXP is measured by checking Free Play Gain at the clutch lever. Whether using the supplied rubber band or your finger, the lever is allowed to move toward the handle bar when the EXP disc is fully expanded by centrifugal force, cause by the rotation of the clutch when you rev the engine. The expanding disc forces the pressure plate toward the clutch cover, introducing a gain in clutch lever free play (AKA slack in a cable or less pressure on the hydraulic system).
Too much Free Play Gain = Too small of an installed gap
Too little Free Play Gain = Too large of an installed gap
We have been performing ongoing testing of oils over the last 12 months given some of the advancements which have been made including the updated JASO-MA2 classification. What we have learned is there are many good motorcycle specific oils available from companies like, AMSOIL, Bel-Ray, Maxima, Motul, Nils, and Spectro (listed in alphabetical order). The best oils we have tested meet the spec of JASO-MA or JASO-MA2 which signifies that the oil is fit for use in wet-clutch motorcycles. It is important to note that some synthetic oils have this certification and some don’t.
For bikes with separate oil for the transmission and clutch, there are increased options due to the number of transmission specific oils available meeting the JASO standards.
We advise against using any oil that does not have JASO MA or JASO-MA2 certification—especially full synthetics intended for automobile use—as they typically contain friction modifiers that will reduce clutch performance even to the point where it can cause clutch-slip.